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Discussion Starter #1
I know this is a Trax, not a corvette, but for the past couple of days running errands I've noticed my car feels.. different. If I want to get on a 100kmh highway, it takes much longer to accelerate. I also have to pedal to the floor to get it to go, whereas before it was normal. Now it feels as if there's no pressure in the pedal

Once it gets there, it's easy to maintain and feels normal, and the pedal has bouancy again

This is a 2013 with 38 k

It's up to date on maintenance and no codes have been popping up.

Worth noting. She went in for a slow coolant leak that turned out to be the pipe to the turbo charger. My dealship informed me that the turbo charger was not covered under powertrain, but they covered the bill since I bought it in December and gave only put 2k on it. This repair was done a couple of weeks ago. Most likely not related, but wanted to mention it. Oh and the AC didn't work either (only just found out as I couldn't test the that in colder weather). This was a wiring issue and they fixed that as well.

I'm a new driver and this is my first car. So I know diddly-squat.

Maybe there's a reasonable explanation?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bad turbo?


That is the only reason I mentioned the recent repair. They replaced both pipes to the turbo, where the coolant was leaking from.


I'm very hesitant to ask them as I doubt they'd agree that was the issue. As well; I don't want to be that P.I.T.A customer that they all hate to hear from.


So I'm trying to figure it out on my own if I can.


I've heard that sometimes it can be spark plug failure, and or clogged/dirty fuel injectors.


I've only ever filled up at busy gas stations that are 'larger' Canadian names. (heard these were important qualities), but only with regular gas. and that I could try a gas line cleaner and upgrade to premium fuel for a while after.




Yesterday AM I drove on an 80 series road and had no issue with acceleration. All felt normal.


Yesterday PM I drove on the 100 series hw and had the issue. I also had the issue when stopping at a stop light and then accelerating like normal. Like you step on the gas and the car moves forward a couple of KM at a time. I will then 'pump' the gas pedal like one does with brakes and my car will 'chug' into the next 'gear' (no idea if that's whats happening) and I'll fly up to 80 like normal.


On the 100 series HW it my car will go to 80 or so then creep up to 100 then something just 'switches' the pedal feels normal and my car flies again, easily going up and down from 120 to 100 and back. (people probably thought I was a weirdo testing it up and down... lol)
 

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A misfire from a spark plug or injector should trigger a code and warning lamp. I'd get it checked out, maybe they missed or caused something when they did the repair. It could also be a clogged exhaust, that would cause a lack of power like you described. Keep taking it back until it's right.
 

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You'd also feel that it's misfiring as well. Clogged cat is another possibility as stated above.

When the AC is on you feel the lack of power. When the AC is on, it feels completely normal?

I've heard the AC being on can draw a noticeable amount of power from smaller engined vehicles whereas on bigger engines you wouldn't notice it that much.
 

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That is the only reason I mentioned the recent repair. They replaced both pipes to the turbo, where the coolant was leaking from.


I'm very hesitant to ask them as I doubt they'd agree that was the issue. As well; I don't want to be that P.I.T.A customer that they all hate to hear from.


So I'm trying to figure it out on my own if I can.


I've heard that sometimes it can be spark plug failure, and or clogged/dirty fuel injectors.


I've only ever filled up at busy gas stations that are 'larger' Canadian names. (heard these were important qualities), but only with regular gas. and that I could try a gas line cleaner and upgrade to premium fuel for a while after.




Yesterday AM I drove on an 80 series road and had no issue with acceleration. All felt normal.


Yesterday PM I drove on the 100 series hw and had the issue. I also had the issue when stopping at a stop light and then accelerating like normal. Like you step on the gas and the car moves forward a couple of KM at a time. I will then 'pump' the gas pedal like one does with brakes and my car will 'chug' into the next 'gear' (no idea if that's whats happening) and I'll fly up to 80 like normal.


On the 100 series HW it my car will go to 80 or so then creep up to 100 then something just 'switches' the pedal feels normal and my car flies again, easily going up and down from 120 to 100 and back. (people probably thought I was a weirdo testing it up and down... lol)

Have it dyno tested by an independent shop. Any issue that noticeable will be very obvious and show up on paper.
 

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Regarding fuel. I only fuel up with Premium from Shell or Esso. We are lucky in Canada, Premium gasoline has NO Ethanol so you get about 5 percent better mileage for the extra 8 percent you pay at the till for one and second it is much better refined and clean.

A family member inspected gas station tanks for Irving oil and he told me to never, ever put regular gasoline in my cars just for the sludge he's seen in holding tanks of regular grade gasoline.

It ends up an extra 3 percent net surcharge at the pump (when you factor the 15 percent ethanol content) of "regular". Using Premium ethanol free gasoline is the least expensive thing you can do to keep your engine healthy.

I've done at least 2 to 3 million Kilometers in my life as a road warrior and I've NEVER had an engine failure. Clean gas and clean oil... I think that applies even more so to a tiny turbocharged engine.
 

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If you want a little more power you could have it tuned, you can purchase a hand held tuner or get a tune by mail.


http://www.diablosport.com/news/2015-buick-encorechevrolet-trax-1-4l/

https://www.trifectaperformance.com/forums/store/product/1093-2013-2016-chevrolet-trax-tracker-14l-turbo/

If you just noticed the power problem after the repair, I would take it back tell them the car has lost power since the repair, it won't be the first or last time GM screwed up or they installed bad parts.
 

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Have it dyno tested by an independent shop. Any issue that noticeable will be very obvious and show up on paper.
But if he doesn't have a baseline dyno from before the repairs to compare it to it'll be kind of insufficient.

I guess he could dyno the car being under different factors (AC on and off) different things like that perhaps?
 

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But if he doesn't have a baseline dyno from before the repairs to compare it to it'll be kind of insufficient.

I guess he could dyno the car being under different factors (AC on and off) different things like that perhaps?

I'm sure there is a GM baseline available. For a car to be as slow as he describes it would have to be dropping in this car anywhere from 50 plus horsepower. Really I'm thinking this is a Turbo not spooling either mechanical problem like a vacuum leak or could be a computer problem too.
 

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There are enough GM 1.4 T baselines out there to go off, its not like you were doing power adders and felt a decline in HP after a change.

I would look for the obvious for now vacuum hoses off wires unplugged, if you don't see anything obvious then it points to the recent repair.

Just guessing, I would say whatever controls the boost is not working, so its like not having a turbo, on a turbocharged engine that is like taking half the power away.
 
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