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I have a 2016 LT with the Bose system. I want to add a subwoofer. With the Bose system all the speakers are powered. Accessing the amp is very easy in the wheel well. How can I get the wire master sheet to tell me what wires I can jump off of with out messing up the system? I just need a bit more bass. And it is an easy enough install. I just need to know which wires are which.
 

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You need to either go to a Buick or Chevy dealer have him print out the diagram you need, or buy or find a service manual of your own.

Right now you can only buy the 2013 manual from Helm.inc, @ $200.00 my guess is the 2013 Buick Encore wiring will be exactly the same.

If you plan on keeping the Trax for a very long time owning a factory service manual is worth the investment, many Corvette owners such as myself buy these manuals because it tells you about the entire car.

These are the same manuals that your dealer has and uses when he needs to find problems related to the Trax http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=helm&Mfg=GMC&Make=CHV&Model=TRAX&Year=2013&Category=&Keyword=&Module=&selected_media=
 

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I plan on buying the service manual in a few years after the warranty and service program end. but for now i did go to the service department at my dealer. That was interesting....It did not inspire confidence. But with a little work and redirecting i was able to get 3 guys to find a tidbit. I couldn't get all the info i wanted but i got the important bit.
 

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SO if anyone has the sun and sound package.... The very nice Bose system. and you want more bass, this makes the most sense. If you don't want to drop a lot of time and money changing out the head unit and finding compatible harnesses (and that seems like a real pain...after reading and researching what goes into the project)

I would go with one of three set ups, one 10 inch, one 12 inch, or two 10 inch. 15 inch is too loud and muddy for a vehicle this size....unless you go all out and build a full system to match the sound right....but then why bother getting the bose system, so yeah.

I have two 10 inch. just enough volume and great sharpness and punch.
The install is the same as any other but the head unit has no rca jacks....easy enough spice off the speaker wires.

the stock amp is in the wheel well behind the passenger back seat. You need a T45 Star bit to unscrew the Styrofoam anchor. once you remove the right side Styrofoam put down the backseat and there you have easy access to the stack amp.

GY/BK is the stock Bose right subwoofer (-) low reference wire
GN/VT is the stock Bose Right subwoofer (+) speaker control

Instead of pulling apart the trax to get to the sub i will just use a vampire plug on the wires right out of the amp and run them to my added amp for my 10 inch subs. Because the wires are powered, i will either run them to the high input on the amp or use a line converter to the rca low input. But that is up to you as your preference.
 

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SO if anyone has the sun and sound package.... The very nice Bose system. and you want more bass, this makes the most sense. If you don't want to drop a lot of time and money changing out the head unit and finding compatible harnesses (and that seems like a real pain...after reading and researching what goes into the project)

I would go with one of three set ups, one 10 inch, one 12 inch, or two 10 inch. 15 inch is too loud and muddy for a vehicle this size....unless you go all out and build a full system to match the sound right....but then why bother getting the bose system, so yeah.

I have two 10 inch. just enough volume and great sharpness and punch.
The install is the same as any other but the head unit has no rca jacks....easy enough spice off the speaker wires.

the stock amp is in the wheel well behind the passenger back seat. You need a T45 Star bit to unscrew the Styrofoam anchor. once you remove the right side Styrofoam put down the backseat and there you have easy access to the stack amp.

GY/BK is the stock Bose right subwoofer (-) low reference wire
GN/VT is the stock Bose Right subwoofer (+) speaker control

Instead of pulling apart the trax to get to the sub i will just use a vampire plug on the wires right out of the amp and run them to my added amp for my 10 inch subs. Because the wires are powered, i will either run them to the high input on the amp or use a line converter to the rca low input. But that is up to you as your preference.

Are using the stock unit (My Link) with these subwoofer? How's the song quality?


For me I'm in the process to change the unit. You can follow this post: http://www.traxforum.com/forum/409-electronics-audio-lighting/2994-can-we-replace-mylink-stereo-new-post.html
 

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Are using the stock unit (My Link) with these subwoofer? How's the song quality?
I haven't started on the project yet. I needed to get the right plug for my brand amp so that took a while to find a dealer I am using the stock mylink....stock everything just adding the subwoofer. I will update when all is done. I paid for the Bose system so i might as well use it
 

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Are using the stock unit (My Link) with these subwoofer? How's the song quality?]
I finally got a break in the weather and time to dive in. Plus I had to go back to the dealer and get more wire complete wire harness info. Turned out to be super easy. The remote wire went to the red/blue wire ( power) and the ground went to the white/black (ground)

As for the sound quality. Just great. Need to spend plenty of time adjusting levels. But once you find your jam it is great. So I would say before you go and try to switch out the my link stock head unit. Just upgrade speakers and a sub. Sounds great.
 

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SO if anyone has the sun and sound package.... The very nice Bose system. and you want more bass, this makes the most sense. If you don't want to drop a lot of time and money changing out the head unit and finding compatible harnesses (and that seems like a real pain...after reading and researching what goes into the project)

I would go with one of three set ups, one 10 inch, one 12 inch, or two 10 inch. 15 inch is too loud and muddy for a vehicle this size....unless you go all out and build a full system to match the sound right....but then why bother getting the bose system, so yeah.

I have two 10 inch. just enough volume and great sharpness and punch.
The install is the same as any other but the head unit has no rca jacks....easy enough spice off the speaker wires.

the stock amp is in the wheel well behind the passenger back seat. You need a T45 Star bit to unscrew the Styrofoam anchor. once you remove the right side Styrofoam put down the backseat and there you have easy access to the stack amp.

GY/BK is the stock Bose right subwoofer (-) low reference wire
GN/VT is the stock Bose Right subwoofer (+) speaker control

Instead of pulling apart the trax to get to the sub i will just use a vampire plug on the wires right out of the amp and run them to my added amp for my 10 inch subs. Because the wires are powered, i will either run them to the high input on the amp or use a line converter to the rca low input. But that is up to you as your preference.

So are you using the existing amp too power your subs? Or have you run a secondary amp. From what I get from this forum so far is your just using the speaker signal from the amp. If your running a secondary amp I'd be interested in seeing how you've run the power from the engine bay to the amp!

I just traded in my 2013 Spark for my new 2016 Chevy Trax LT with sun and sound but I'm not getting the same punch I was getting from the 12" I installed in the Spark. Yes I installed a 12" 1000 watt JBL GT COMP Series in the wheel well with a 2.4 cap and gain/freq control in the glove box lol
 

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Just push in on both adjustment buttons and pull the arms up and out of the bases. Arms are long but will lift right out.
I tried that but it only goes up so far then stops, it won't come out all the way. I didn't want to break anything forcing them out. The wife complains about rear view visibility and the kids keep forgetting to put them down, so I was going to remove them. The owners manual does say they are not removable.
 

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I tried that but it only goes up so far then stops, it won't come out all the way. I didn't want to break anything forcing them out. The wife complains about rear view visibility and the kids keep forgetting to put them down, so I was going to remove them. The owners manual does say they are not removable.
After reading your first question I walked out to the garage and tried myself. I only tried the driver side but it came right out. Tried just now again, both come right out by pushing both buttons simultaneously. Just had to recline seat to get enough clearances to lift high enough. When I only pushed only on one button, it stopped partway up and would not move any further.
 

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Is the box built to specs for the sub itself ?! That is super clean.
Yeah, after a quick phone call from a guy at JBL the none ported specs worked out perfectly 1.14qf inner. Thanks man, I'm a bit of a perfectionist. I'm aiming for at least 30Hz at 1000w rms in the Trax, that little Bose wheel well sub just doesn't do it for me. I just want to make sure I don't screw up the Bose system by tapping into something that might mess something up.
 

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Paradawx72,
I really know nothing about this generally but, would simply removing the spare tire help with base ? As long as you some used a cylinder to keep the existing BOSE sub mounted the way it does without the spare there ?
 

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Paradawx72,
I really know nothing about this generally but, would simply removing the spare tire help with base ? As long as you some used a cylinder to keep the existing BOSE sub mounted the way it does without the spare there ?
I would imagine it would slightly increase the frequency response, but not by much. That little wheel well sub sounds great don't get me wrong, but not nearly as good as it could potentially be. You need something no smaller than a 10" to achieve those deep low ends around the 30 to 40 hz range! when I had the spark I stripped out everything except the MyLink system, swopped out the 4" factory dash drivers for 190watt 4" Kickers, installed 220watt 5 1/2" Pioneers in the rear trees and a 12" JBL comp sub in the wheel well as you saw in the previous post. At the end of the day I was pushing around 1600watts of super clear frequencies across the board from 30hz up to 20khz.
 

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SO if anyone has the sun and sound package.... The very nice Bose system. and you want more bass, this makes the most sense. If you don't want to drop a lot of time and money changing out the head unit and finding compatible harnesses (and that seems like a real pain...after reading and researching what goes into the project)

I would go with one of three set ups, one 10 inch, one 12 inch, or two 10 inch. 15 inch is too loud and muddy for a vehicle this size....unless you go all out and build a full system to match the sound right....but then why bother getting the bose system, so yeah.

I have two 10 inch. just enough volume and great sharpness and punch.
The install is the same as any other but the head unit has no rca jacks....easy enough spice off the speaker wires.

the stock amp is in the wheel well behind the passenger back seat. You need a T45 Star bit to unscrew the Styrofoam anchor. once you remove the right side Styrofoam put down the backseat and there you have easy access to the stack amp.

GY/BK is the stock Bose right subwoofer (-) low reference wire
GN/VT is the stock Bose Right subwoofer (+) speaker control

Instead of pulling apart the trax to get to the sub i will just use a vampire plug on the wires right out of the amp and run them to my added amp for my 10 inch subs. Because the wires are powered, i will either run them to the high input on the amp or use a line converter to the rca low input. But that is up to you as your preference.

How did you run your remote line (amp on power), from where?, for your secondary amp?!
 
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