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I have whatever size tires the factory put on there.

Yes Blizzak are great in the snow, absolutely one of the best, but don't run them over dry pavement, they will wear out really fast. You have to be willing and able to swap tires every time the weather changes. Tall skinny tires will always give the best perfomance in snow. Fat tires work good on dry pavement.
 

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The way I read it, it says the rear differential module will actuate the clutch as requested. ( and converts that signal into torque through the clutch to the rear tires when all wheel drive (AWD) is requested. ) If the clutch isn't enabled it should be free wheeling. When I had the driveshaft off last summer I noticed absolutely no difference in driveability except when taking off too rapidly on loose stuff or small gravel and I would get wheel spin forever, where with the driveshaft in, it will spin a second or 2 until the module detects differences between front and rear wheel speed and slam the rear diff in action. Sometime it makes a nice loud bang when it is enabled. I never hear it disable.
Why does it make a loud bang? when taking sharp corners, it binds up and then makes a loud noise. Do you know why? is there something wrong with the rear diff?
 

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You probably are driving too fast for that corner and one of the back wheels is lifting off of the ground, immediately engaging AWD and T/C at the same time. The loud bang is probably the clutch being slammed in when wheel speed differential is high.
 

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You probably are driving too fast for that corner and one of the back wheels is lifting off of the ground, immediately engaging AWD and T/C at the same time. The loud bang is probably the clutch being slammed in when wheel speed differential is high.
not driving fast - it's happening in the driveway when turning around at a slow pace. It has resitance then it bangs and lets go.
 

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Loud bang coming from the front or rear? Do you have more details like year and mileage?

If the front is binding and the loud bang comes from the front then I would say you have a bad half shaft. Does it vibrate at high speed?
 
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For the last time. Your Trax is front wheel drive until the PWM activates the clutch for the rear differential when needed.
Thank you Traxy! I believe you are correct. The rear differential clutch has to be activated to send power to rear wheels. There is no other easy way to control power flowing to the rear wheels except via use of a clutch. The rear wheels are never powered by an independent electric motor allowing to monitor power flowing to them.
 

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The way I read it, it says the rear differential module will actuate the clutch as requested. ( and converts that signal into torque through the clutch to the rear tires when all wheel drive (AWD) is requested. ) If the clutch isn't enabled it should be free wheeling. When I had the driveshaft off last summer I noticed absolutely no difference in driveability except when taking off too rapidly on loose stuff or small gravel and I would get wheel spin forever, where with the driveshaft in, it will spin a second or 2 until the module detects differences between front and rear wheel speed and slam the rear diff in action. Sometime it makes a nice loud bang when it is enabled. I never hear it disable.
I love the power I have in my 2017 awd turbo it wastes no time passing a semi on the hiway. It was a service vehicle when it was new maybe a police car. It has two plugs in the roof and I repaired the console where a laptop bracket was installed. There is still a multi path cord that had been cut off and stuffed under the dash. I'm looking for accessories for my trax.
 

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2020 Chev Trax LT AWD
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I think Traxy is correct.
My Hyundai Santa Fe Sport AWD....does the same exact thing. Automatically comes active when needed, and disengages when not, and when going 50 mph I believe.
My Santa Fe DOES have a "lock" button for AWD, my Trax does not.
 
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