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Hello everyone, 2015 chevy trax LT.
  • Blower would only work on 4.
  • Replaced resistor with one from NAPA, worked for 2 min minutes then no blower at all. No evidence of anything burnt on the plug or resistor.
  • Got warranty on that one and tried it again, same thing, worked for 2 minutes then burnt without evidence.
  • Replaced blower motor and resistor, this time it worked for 3 days then quit again. Resistor plug and resistor is kinda burnt / melted.
  • Got a resistor from dealer, plugged it in and it works on all speeds but gets really hot really fast when on 3, 2 or 1. Scared it's only going to last another 5 minutes then burn out.
Looking at the wiring diagram and i'm seeing the speed selector switch basically varies the ground.
Would the speed selector switch be bad? Or a bad ground? Anyone had this kind of issues before?
Thanks in advance!
 

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Maybe your cabin air filter is plugged. Motor has to work overtime to pull air through. Just a thought!!!
 

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You should really replace it every year. Blowing it out doesn't get rid of e coli mildew or fungus. I value my lungs, without them I can't breathe.
 

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Hello everyone, 2015 chevy trax LT.
  • Blower would only work on 4.
  • Replaced resistor with one from NAPA, worked for 2 min minutes then no blower at all. No evidence of anything burnt on the plug or resistor.
  • Got warranty on that one and tried it again, same thing, worked for 2 minutes then burnt without evidence.
  • Replaced blower motor and resistor, this time it worked for 3 days then quit again. Resistor plug and resistor is kinda burnt / melted.
  • Got a resistor from dealer, plugged it in and it works on all speeds but gets really hot really fast when on 3, 2 or 1. Scared it's only going to last another 5 minutes then burn out.
Looking at the wiring diagram and i'm seeing the speed selector switch basically varies the ground.
Would the speed selector switch be bad? Or a bad ground? Anyone had this kind of issues before?
Thanks in advance!
I am having the same issue in my 2016 and I stillhave not found the call culprit. Did you have Any luck on fixing it?? I am currently about to order another round of parts but not to just have them burn up on me.
 

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Make sure your cabin air filter isn't plugged up with debris, then make sure you buy a descent quality replacement resistor network and check to make sure contacts are good and clean, dielectric grease won't hurt here. Last but not least you could have a bad motor that's drawing too much current.
 

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Hello everyone, 2015 chevy trax LT.
  • Blower would only work on 4.
  • Replaced resistor with one from NAPA, worked for 2 min minutes then no blower at all. No evidence of anything burnt on the plug or resistor.
  • Got warranty on that one and tried it again, same thing, worked for 2 minutes then burnt without evidence.
  • Replaced blower motor and resistor, this time it worked for 3 days then quit again. Resistor plug and resistor is kinda burnt / melted.
  • Got a resistor from dealer, plugged it in and it works on all speeds but gets really hot really fast when on 3, 2 or 1. Scared it's only going to last another 5 minutes then burn out.
Looking at the wiring diagram and i'm seeing the speed selector switch basically varies the ground.
Would the speed selector switch be bad? Or a bad ground? Anyone had this kind of issues before?
Thanks in advance!
We are experiencing exact same thing with our 2016 Chevy Trax Lt..we put in brand new cabin filter. Should we replace blower motor? Any ideas?
 

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Wondering if anyone can help, similar issue.
Blower stopped working mid June. Replaced the Relay, resistor and pigtail worked for two days. Replaced resistor and motor, worked for almost two weeks. Replaced Cabin Air Filter, Resistor (added dielectric grease this time), pigtail, and motor blower all at the same time. This time it burned up while testing each of the settings. Worked on 1,2,3 then 4 stopped the whole thing and doesn't come back on now. I pulled the climate control unit out and check that end for any short circuit or decolorization could not find any issue with it.
I have used a multimeter and checked the power at the relay, the blower motor connection, and resistor connection. everything seems to be showing the correct output except the middle connection on the pigtail. pulling the wiring harness next. Any additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Just checking in. I have a 2016 Trax LT with this problem. For those that replaced the cabin air filter, did it help the problem or did it burn out right away again? I replaced the blower motor, resistor and harness last month and it burned out the next day, just put in a new resistor and harness, blower motor is still good per the mechanic from Chevy. I replaced the cabin air filter myself just now. I would put dielectric grease on the connector, but no idea where it is where to grease it. Just trying not to spend another 5-600 in repairs at the mechanic shop.
 

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If you keep burning resistor networks chances are your fan motor has a few shorted windings and is drawing too much current.
 

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Yes, I missed that you already replaced the motor. Sorry. Then the only thing left is restriction in airflow but if you already changed the cabin air filter I'm at a lost.

Also remember that new doesn't mean good. You need somebody to measure current flow when system is running.
 

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I have a 2017 Trax. Blower motor replaced in June 22, Resistor melted twice and now I am not sure what it could be. I haven't put a new resistor on it because it has to be something causing it to melt. Any ideas. I have no idea what I really talking about but I don't want another mechanic to take advantage of me. I want to educate myself on it so I know what to tell them. Please HELP!!!
 

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Hello everyone, 2015 chevy trax LT.
  • Blower would only work on 4.
  • Replaced resistor with one from NAPA, worked for 2 min minutes then no blower at all. No evidence of anything burnt on the plug or resistor.
  • Got warranty on that one and tried it again, same thing, worked for 2 minutes then burnt without evidence.
  • Replaced blower motor and resistor, this time it worked for 3 days then quit again. Resistor plug and resistor is kinda burnt / melted.
  • Got a resistor from dealer, plugged it in and it works on all speeds but gets really hot really fast when on 3, 2 or 1. Scared it's only going to last another 5 minutes then burn out.
Looking at the wiring diagram and i'm seeing the speed selector switch basically varies the ground.
Would the speed selector switch be bad? Or a bad ground? Anyone had this kind of issues before?
Thanks in advance!
To start I am not a certified auto mechanic so I am not sure if what I am writing is correct. I do have a few engineering degrees and have worked in hands-on engineering jobs (a number of patents etc.) for many years but not in the auto field.

Out of interest I purchased a low-cost Trax service manual (2017 - 2018) and have been reading up on the Trax (my Trax has not had any issues but I have low miles).

So on the highest setting (4) no load resistors in the loop.

Depending on the other settings it can be 1, 2, or 3 resistors in series so if one resistor fails (open) that means fan settings 1 (3 resistors), 2 (2 resistors), or 3 (1 resistor) may not be working depending on which resistor failed. The resistors are just used as load resistors to limit current to the fan.

A fan/blower is a motor and if it does not get airflow across it to cool it (convective heat transfer) that may help cause the fan to fail so not only does a filter that is plugged up may cause issues if the inlet is restricted that may cause issues also.

If the fan does not turn on for any setting then maybe the relay is not working or the fan is dead (as others have written), a cable/switch has been damaged or the fuse is open.

The youtube video below is for a Chevy (not a Trax!) but I thought did a good general overview.

I am located in a cold region and do not have a heated garage when the weather is more suitable I think I will try the above measurements in the video along with trying to measure the voltages across the resistors (compute the current using ohms law) and record as a baseline measurement.
 

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This is an issue that almost every 2014-18 Trax and spark have. The problem is with the pig tale at the resistor. Copper wire + aluminum connector = excessive heat which means the connection goes haywire. Chevy has decided not to recall this part because you have to remove the glove box to get to it and there a defect in the plastic that causes it to break and have to be replaced when repairing the resistor wiring. That and the proper pigtail is not being manufactured at this time. You can replace the pigtail but the problem will come back in maybe 6 months maybe 6 years. I’ve replaced mine twice, once it lasted for about four months. The latest one has been working for almost 2 years but I can smell that it’s been getting hot recently.
 

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This is an issue that almost every 2014-18 Trax and spark have. The problem is with the pig tale at the resistor. Copper wire + aluminum connector = excessive heat which means the connection goes haywire. Chevy has decided not to recall this part because you have to remove the glove box to get to it and there a defect in the plastic that causes it to break and have to be replaced when repairing the resistor wiring. That and the proper pigtail is not being manufactured at this time. You can replace the pigtail but the problem will come back in maybe 6 months maybe 6 years. I’ve replaced mine twice, once it lasted for about four months. The latest one has been working for almost 2 years but I can smell that it’s been getting hot recently.
Given what I have read about the electrics behind the fan speed control at this point I plan on just using setting 4 (which does not have a load resistor in the loop). At this fan speed on my Trax, it is loud but I will just turn it on and off as needed.

I do like my Trax and I have not had any issues yet (I do have low miles) but this just does not seem like a modern robust design on the fan speed controls.

It's typical to replace load resistors with transistors that switch on and off at a given rate (duty cycle) to create an average current that runs in the circuit. On the Trax it appears the same amount of energy is used on the fan at all speeds it's just that on speeds 1,2 and 3 resistors heat up instead of running the fan at full speed.

I did read a fuse is in the circuit that I would assume protects the blower/battery on all settings but it appears the load resistors cannot handle the current the fuse can so they are acting like fuses. The resistors do not have heat sinks or an area for natural convective heat transfer.

I expect it would be easy to design a transistor circuit that could connect where the resistors connect and control it that way (if area permitting) but the issue is that could void warranty or insurance issues so I will not be looking into that.

I expect gm is using transistor control on other vehicles they sell and they would have to be the ones to provide a transistor basis fan control which could be analog instead of 4 speeds but I expect that would not make sense with respect to finances. The only way it may make sense is to try to have happy Trax owners so that when it is time to purchase a new car they stay with gm.
 
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