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Recently a check engine light came on and my 2016 Chevy Trax has began “bucking” when you pull up to a stop sign or light. This happens occasionally when first putting the car into drive. I went to my local auto parts and had a diagnostic run and it said the mass flow air sensor was dirty. I bought a bottle of spray and went home and cleaned it. The light went off and it ran ok for a day or two. It started again. I went to a reputable garage in the area, they read several codes about fuel too lean and some others things. They told me it was still under the 100,000 mile warranty and they would rather I go to the dealer. (They did not reset the codes). Two weeks later I get into the dealer and tell me they cannot find anything wrong and charge me $95. Crossroads Chevrolet just lost a customer for good. What should I do from here?
By waiting 2 weeks the codes may have cleared themselves. Some code will self clear after the issue does not recur for a set amount of time. So it is possible that the dealer found nothing. It is hard to even try to fix a problem that is not there. For a 2016 unless you drive a LOT it should have still been under warranty, I would call GM customer service and see if they can get the dealer to refund your $95, and then find a different dealer.

Did you get what the codes were that your mechanic found?
 

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2018 Trax issues

I have a 2018 Chevy Trax, I bought it Sept 1st, 2018 by Sept 26, 2018, with 16 miles, it left me stranded on the side of the road. Then I have had in back in the shop 4 other times since this because the radio freezes up and the controls on the steering wheel doesn't work. The 3 time I had it in the shop for this problem I was told it was my phone. I had an Iphone 7plus. So I go buy a new phone. I get in the car sync it up and I have managed to lock the screen up again. It was not my phone!!
 

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Looks like your vehicle had a mild contact with a snowbank. Get the seller to fix it and don't worry too much about it.
 

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Bought a 2018 Chevy Trax 1.4L Turbo with 300-some miles on it when I drove it off the lot. Fast forward to two days ago and my engine stalled during some intensely cold weather even after driving 2 miles. Continued to stall/engine misfire the commute home before the check engine light came on as I drove in the driveway (10 miles later). I had it towed to the dealership to be serviced and got a call today diagnosing my car with a cracked piston at 1297 miles!!!
 

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P0420

New member here, first post. I own a 2014 with 80,000km. Just got off warranty. Ive done the front brakes and rotors, rear drums were ok. I just changed the oil and filter. I now just flashed a P0420 code. Im asking for any assistance in troubleshooting this problem/if there's anything common that occurs with this model that I should know in that area? How long should I expect to get out of my catalytic converter? Should my O2 sensors be cleaned/replaced at a certain milage? Im cheap, I don't want to just keep replacing parts till my problem dissappears. Thanks. JARR
 

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Did you check for other codes that may be paired with P0420? I would start by making sure there isn't an exhaust leak between the two HO²s. I would then clear the codes to make sure it wasn't a freak code. If the same codes come back then get into it. Being cheap can sometimes cost you more so I think you should get to the bottom of it or pay more later.
 

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Hi guys. New member here, and I'm hoping this group can help problem solve. My 2016 Trax has a recurring problem where I keep coming out to a dead battery. I've had it to the dealer repeatedly. They charged the battery, but it died again. They replaced the battery, and it died again. They replaced the alternator, and it died again. This back-and-forth has been going on for over a year. I've had to jump start it more times than I can count, and now the blasted thing is so dead we can't even jump start it. I called OnStar to tow it in tomorrow. Clearly something in the electrical system isn't right, but we're having a hard time pinning down the source of the problem. Any ideas what else it could be?
 

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A good technician will unplug connectors from the fuse block one by one until he finds the one that draws the current killing your battery. This isn't rocket science. Ask for a rental until they find the problem and watch what happens when money counts.
 

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If it is an intermittent problem, good luck, if it is not misbehaving while at the dealer they can not find a problem that is not there at the time. Even a bad technician knows how to find a battery draw. But they can only find one if it is actually there at the time they are looking for it. It usually when there is obviously a problem but the problem is not presenting its self at the time that they will take a guess and replace a related something. It sure sounds like this is the boat you are in.

You can keep an eye out for things like an interior light or other thing that does not turn off after you leave the car, or for any sounds the car is making after shutdown, like an electric motor running somewhere. This would all be very valuable cluesfor the poor guy trying to track down an intermittent problem.
 

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I have deduced that I have a major intake leak not bad enough to set a code but bad enough to make my my tune not work as designed. Since my vehicle is a rebuilt I suspect a cracked intercooler, only problem it's way too cold to work on this at this time on my own. So everything is on hold until weather gets better. Sorry for everybody waiting to hear about my progress. Reading today on the turbo output which states 12-15 PSI on a good system I realized something was wrong since I'm lucky to get 7-9 PSI . As soon as I have a chance I will pressurize the intercooler and the boost system to check for more leaks. Again people sorry for all the delays, but I will get to the bottom of this sooner or later.


2077
 

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I have deduced that I have a major intake leak not bad enough to set a code but bad enough to make my my tune not work as designed. Since my vehicle is a rebuilt I suspect a cracked intercooler, only problem it's way too cold to work on this at this time on my own. So everything is on hold until weather gets better. Sorry for everybody waiting to hear about my progress. Reading today on the turbo output which states 12-15 PSI on a good system I realized something was wrong since I'm lucky to get 7-9 PSI . As soon as I have a chance I will pressurize the intercooler and the boost system to check for more leaks. Again people sorry for all the delays, but I will get to the bottom of this sooner or later.


2077
Thanks again for all your contributions to this Forum. I think you single handedly have added more info/data that all the rest of us combined. And I'll even throw in the Encore forum I frequent too!!
 

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Just realized I posted this in the wrong thread. Where is my head these days. Ah well!!!
 

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I have a 2017 that I bought new in July of that year but I have over 67k miles on it now because I use it for work. Never had any problems with it until I was at about 58.5k miles and it started leaking coolant profusely. Took it to the dealer and they said it was a bad water pump and it was replaced under warranty. Thought I got lucky cause I got it in under the wire. Then at about 66k it suddenly flashed a warning, “check stabilitrak system,” thru up a CEL and went into limp mode. Turned off the engine, waited a few seconds and then turned the key and it went back to normal. The CEL went of after a few restarts. Happened again 2 more times within a week. I had the tires changed the day before and wondered if they had knocked something loose. But the code that went up said it had something to do with the throttle body position sensor not matching the pedal position. Took it to the dealer but they said they would need it the whole day to run diagnostics. Told them I would have to take it back later cause it was late in the day anyway. They said that was fine since it didn’t seem to be too major in terms of safety.

Then my wife used my car and even though I warned her about it, she freaked out when it actually happened. It had been fine for over a week. But the one time she uses it . . . Anyway, I told her to just park it, wait 15 seconds and turn it back on. But instead of coming straight home, she goes to visit her friend. Then it did it a second time and this time she’s freaking out saying it’s not safe to drive. So we have it towed to a different dealership. They say it’s $150 to run the diagnostic since I was now out of warranty. They said the throttle body was filthy and seemed to be very worn. They said they would do a cleaning and hopefully that would clear it up. They would just charge me the $150 I would have to pay anyway.

When I went to pick up the vehicle, it through up the CEL and went into limp mode again as they were pulling the car up. So they said they would rediagnose it. They call me later that day and said I needed a new throttle body and it would cost me another $475 to replace it. I said no thank you since they were less than $90 on Amazon and appeared to be an extremely simple project. It probably took me no more than 20 minutes to swap it out.

Up until recently, I was pretty pleased with the car. The only somewhat large expense I’ve had until now was replacing the battery when I accidentally melted the original battery by resting a halogen lamp on top of it. D’oh!

Keeping my fingers crossed that there are no other issues.
 

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I have a 2017 that I bought new in July of that year but I have over 67k miles on it now because I use it for work. Never had any problems with it until I was at about 58.5k miles and it started leaking coolant profusely. Took it to the dealer and they said it was a bad water pump and it was replaced under warranty. Thought I got lucky cause I got it in under the wire. Then at about 66k it suddenly flashed a warning, “check stabilitrak system,” thru up a CEL and went into limp mode. Turned off the engine, waited a few seconds and then turned the key and it went back to normal. The CEL went of after a few restarts. Happened again 2 more times within a week. I had the tires changed the day before and wondered if they had knocked something loose. But the code that went up said it had something to do with the throttle body position sensor not matching the pedal position. Took it to the dealer but they said they would need it the whole day to run diagnostics. Told them I would have to take it back later cause it was late in the day anyway. They said that was fine since it didn’t seem to be too major in terms of safety.

Then my wife used my car and even though I warned her about it, she freaked out when it actually happened. It had been fine for over a week. But the one time she uses it . . . Anyway, I told her to just park it, wait 15 seconds and turn it back on. But instead of coming straight home, she goes to visit her friend. Then it did it a second time and this time she’s freaking out saying it’s not safe to drive. So we have it towed to a different dealership. They say it’s $150 to run the diagnostic since I was now out of warranty. They said the throttle body was filthy and seemed to be very worn. They said they would do a cleaning and hopefully that would clear it up. They would just charge me the $150 I would have to pay anyway.

When I went to pick up the vehicle, it through up the CEL and went into limp mode again as they were pulling the car up. So they said they would rediagnose it. They call me later that day and said I needed a new throttle body and it would cost me another $475 to replace it. I said no thank you since they were less than $90 on Amazon and appeared to be an extremely simple project. It probably took me no more than 20 minutes to swap it out.

Up until recently, I was pretty pleased with the car. The only somewhat large expense I’ve had until now was replacing the battery when I accidentally melted the original battery by resting a halogen lamp on top of it. D’oh!

Keeping my fingers crossed that there are no other issues.
so, you reprogram the new TB?? or just swap it and drive it??

Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk
 

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I just swapped it out. Didn’t do any reprogramming. It may have helped that the dealer reset the idle after cleaning the old throttle body. Haven’t had any issue so far, but it’s only been a few days.
 

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I Bought one of these Trax Redline Version (2018)in Oct 2018, paid almost $30,000.00 has 5200 miles on it and I've had nothing but trouble. Drivers seat failed, (cushion caved and collapsed to the left and has become unsupportive for your hip ,seat as a whole is loose and frame creaks and makes metallic cracking noises and the track is rough going forward and back) transmission failed (shifts rough, indecisive and slips, takes a couple seconds to engage in to drive or reverse), drivers door came loose at the hinge and caught the front fender, rear hatch right side hinge is loose, car is missing paint on the back inner of the hatch, (Bose radio-camera-onstar) shuts off all the time and becomes unresponsive, glove box fell off its hinge, sun roof glass doesn't fit evenly and flush, engine is buzzy and under powered and i only get 17.5 MPG, all wheel drive has failed and shut off the very first time I had it in the snow.
There are other issues too but im not going to write a book and Im becoming increasingly disappointed in this vehicle and cant drive it for more than 15 min do to the seat cushion causing hip pain. I've called the service department and was deterred to not bring it in because of being told that "If we determine that its not abuse it will be covered under warranty". What makes service think or say that? Why would they assume its abuse and not even have looked at the car? I bought a new car to be worry free and every day I get in this vehicle i worry if its going to break down.
 

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All of it should be under warranty, don't be scared to go above the service advisers head either. You paid good money for that vehicle and it should be flawless ( built in Mexico or not ) They are force to give you a loaner if it takes more than a day to fix. If it doesn't go your way start talking louder so other customers can hear you. They'll find the tools, the parts and the personnel to fix right or bring it back.
 

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2016 Trax A/C temperature issues & dealership ignoring bulletin info (as a bonus)!

I have the same issue with my 2016 Chevy Trax. The A/C not working well whatsoever, when the temp is 90 or above. If the sun's not bearing down, then the A/C will typically work fairly decent. Then again, I live in FL. About 90 days a year are disgustingly warm, and when you go somewhere 20-30 mins away, in your well-maintained vehicle, you don't expect to arrive sweating, since the A/C has been on speed 2-3 the entire time.

I've discovered there's a Service Bulletin issued that informs mechanics to not fill the A/C coolant all the way, as it creates this diminished A/C result. What shows Chevy really cares, is when you take it to the dealer to have them correct the manufacturer issue, and let some A/C coolant out of the system, they don't see why I disagree with being billed for the "fix". I'd do it myself, and if I did and messed something up, I would be ok with being billed.

So c'mon Chevy.....do the right thing, and eat the cost to correct an issue to some defect in the Trax' A/C system. It's absurd to expect me to pay for diagnostic, and replacement of some possible problem parts, when all I'm asking for is to let some freaking freon(or whatever it's called now) out. If that doesn't fix the issue, then we'll start exploring. Due to the lack of care and uninterest Chevy has displayed, as of right now I'll NEVER buy a Chevy again. Doing things right, and thinking about the customer could create strong loyalty.....The decisions made regarding the whole situation will determine what vehicles I purchase in the future, and will demonstrate the truth regarding your value of customers.

Disappointed and very frustrated,

Robert H
 

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I have a 2019 Trax, and I am really bummed I bought this car. I live in Chandler AZ, and this week, we finally had temps in the 40s. I turned on the heat, and no heat. I drive about 25 miles to work, and left it on the who;e drive. No heat. The car has 14000 miles on it. Anyone else have this issue?
 
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