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Take it to the dealer you are covered for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first, any vehicle defect repairs are covered.

The powertrain, consisting of your engine, drive systems, transmission/transaxle, transfer case and emission control systems, has coverage extending to 5 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first.

GM vehicles are designed and built to resist corrosion. However, all body and sheet metal components are warranted against rust-through corrosion for 6 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.
 

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Depending on where you live, the dealership can try to fix it a few times before you can enact the lemon law or its equivalent if they cant fix it. Maybe the hatch lock is just jammed, shouldn't be too hard to fix.

Keep us updated on the solution in case someone else runs into the same problem.
 

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The hatch has an electric lock, it is possible that there is no power going to the lock to allow it to open.

Could be as little as a wire fell off, its possible it wasn't pushed in far enough during assembly.

It could be that the rest of the doors are locked on your car, there is a setting on your car that only opens the drivers door, the rest of the doors stay locked the hatch stays locked also.

It can be something simple like a bad relay or a bad lock, but nothing that would let you enact the lemon law.
 

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We have had the same exact problem. Twice. Covered under warranty both times. First time when the car was 6 months old, and just this week at 2 1/2 years old. The first time it took the dealer multiple tries to diagnose since the problem was intermittent and hard to pinpoint. They ended up replacing the latch assembly, hatch harness and the body control module. Now at 2 1/2 years old it happened again, except this time it was totally inoperative. Turned out to be the release switch. Just picked it up today and everything is fine.

Seeing this thread that was started already, and what we have experienced, I wonder if this problem may be more common than we know.

Needless to say I am not very confident about how long the latch will work this time.
 

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At least you know it's the switch and it's cheap ( $15 ) and easy to replace. GM#95034856
 

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Well, guess what - it is failing (intermittently) again. Quit working the very next day. The day after that, it worked fine. Today, it worked in the morning, but not in the afternoon.

Back to the shop tomorrow. They're planning on calling the GM tech people. Again.

Getting more than annoying now...
 

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Did they at least show you how to open the hatch from the inside if you ever need to? There's a plastic plug at the bottom you can remove then you can insert a 3/16" screwdriver in the square hole and turn clockwise. I'm sure the dealer has the right tool for this...



 

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Thanks for the info. I was wondering how to manually open the hatch in order to fix/access it. It's going back to the dealer today.

For the life of me I can't figure what the problem is because everything involved with the latch has been replaced! Sometimes twice!

I'll post what the diagnosis is when I find out. We're so shell-shocked now I don't know if we'll ever trust the latch whenever it's fixed!
 

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You'd think GM would throw in a tool in the glove box for this in case it didn't work so you wouldn't have to go to the dealer.
 

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Unfortunately it is neither 1/4" nor 3/8", that would have been too easy.
 

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They should change the electrical harness or at least take it out and inspect and test it before giving you the car back.

A bad ground can cause the problem, the hinges might isolate the door well enough to need another ground point.
 

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Not grounded through the hinge. Ground comes on a wire BK/BK power on an other wire BU/WH. When you press the switch it powers the motor.

 

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Got the Trax back this afternoon. The diagnosis was that the wiring connector for the latch had 3 pins that were not making proper contact and were replaced according to the paperwork. So I guess you would call it a bad connection, which could explain why the problem was intermittent.

So...we'll see how things go now.
 

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Unfortunately ¼" is too small and ⅜" is too big. If you take a flat screw driver about 9mm wide or .36" and insert it diagonally from corner to corner in the square hole turn it counterclockwise about 10° it will work nicely .



As for the switch it is quite possibly a dealer item or ACDelco supply store. About $15 at the dealer.

https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?Vin=3GNCJPSB8GL142716&Filter=()&SubCategoryUrl=liftgate-hardware&Diagram=&PartNumbers=&PNC=866882889e3c05fd4c93eb8e27354607

Here it is from ebay for picture reference GM#95034856


https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Trunk-Lid-Release-Switch-WELLS-SW9516-fits-2013-Buick-Encore/273256727926?hash=item3f9f5ec576:g:4koAAOSwbopZSjwJ

2501
 

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Well I guess I should note Just so anyone else that searches for the problem. The rear hatch on my 2018 Red Line LT now refuses to open. I closed it yesterday morning, and it acted like it didn't latch, so I pushed on it and it latched. Now I can't open it and the "Rear hatch open" message is on the dash. Luckily I can just hit the "Menu" button on the stalk and it bypasses. I am glad there is no warning noise connected with it. It will be going to the dealership later this week when I don't have to work. I will update what they find. Thanks for the heads up on how to manually open it Traxy.
 

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Picked up my Red Line this afternoon. They said the latch was "jammed" and replaced with a new one. All covered under warranty of course.
 
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