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I use Mobil 1 or Valvoline full synthetic. I'm happy with either and would never go back to regular oil.
 
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Loaded question! Check out Bob is the Oil guy forums to get info for your engine.
I like Pennzoil Ultra, but all the full syn oil is going to be more than enough protection for your engine as long as you change it before your % hits zero.
 

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I believe choosing oil brands to be similar to choosing which gas station to frequent.

Here's a little peek behind that curtain: A few years ago a large batch of gasoline was contaminated with diesel fuel by the refinery. This contamination effected nearly every gas station in town, aside from Chevron (they have their own dedicated refinery, if I'm not mistaken). What does this tell you about the true difference between Shell, Citgo, Sam's Club, Costco, Speedway, Giant, Diamond Shamrock, etc? There's little, or no, difference.

Most +2011 GM vehicles require dexos-approved oils, a selection of which are listed here:
https://www.gmdexos.com/brands/dexos1/index.html

TLDR: I suggest paying more attention to the oil's certifications and ensure they meet your vehicle manufacturer's specifications, more than focusing on particular brands.
 

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There's generally 2 types of gasoline brought into every part of the country, branded and unbranded. The branded gasoline gets the specific detergent and additives for their brand, while all the unbranded gasoline is sent to everyone else with a generic blend of detergents and additives.

I've seen cases where the hauling contractors have taken a full load of diesel and then instead of swapping tankers they load those same compartments with gasoline and drop off at your local gas station. I've mostly noticed that happened more on the unbranded gasoline stations around my area, especially since most of the branded stations have high financial penalties contractually.

About a month ago the gas station my Dad manages was shut down for 3 days because the contractor contaminated the tanks with diesel. So aside from the $30K it cost to get the tanks drained and cleaned, they had to compensate the gas station for its loss business which came to the tune of $200K, and another $15K in repairs for all the cars that filled up that day. I'm sure they have an insurance policy that covered the bulk of the costs, but the general disruption I'm sure wasn't worth the money or aggregation.
 

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So, what brand oil do you guys use in your Trax ?....


I have used Penzoil, oil for years myself, in other vehicles, this is my 1st Trax..
 

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If you like Pennzoil, stick with Pennzoil. There's only one real caveat to remember when you buy any brand of oil, and this is directly from the owners manual.

Engine oil meeting the dexos1 specification of the proper SAE viscosity grade. ACDelco dexos1 full synthetic is recommended.
So as long as Pennzoil meets that requirement, which i know it does, you should be fine. Use a quality oil filter and you're good to go, it's very important to get a good filter, don't just buy the cheapest one there. You're not just protecting the engine, but also the bearings in that turbo. Want to keep that oil as clean as possible for as long as you can.
 

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Ok, Ill use the synthetic Pennzoil, and oil filter, have always used Fram, these still good brand to use ?.


Ben a long time since I owned a new vehicle..
 

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I use FRAM and Mobil1 full synthetic. I tried the Pennzoil synthetic from natural gas and didn't like it, oil levels dropped quickly so went back to Mobil1.
 
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Mobil 1 ONLY!

I've been (now retired) a 45-50,000 mile/year commuter for my entire 35+ year career and have owned several brands and models of cars during that time. With one vehicle, a Toyota Echo (standard trans/ no A.C., manual windows-VERY basic 'commuter car'; going for the MPG's), I put 450,000 miles on it! At the time of junking, it had original everything (except consumables-tires, batteries, etc.) including the timing belt! and I had used NOTHING but Mobil 1 in it. Its' 1st oil change was at 100 miles.
I junked this car because of 'road rot' (rust) but would've driven to California and back to Wisconsin without hesitation or fear of mechanical breakdown. In short, Mobil 1 is by far the best synthetic motor oil that money can buy....and I've tried them all, including Amzoil.
For our retirement, we now own a Chev Trax and LOVE it, and are again using Mobil 1 on the same Fall/Spring (alternating oil 'weights' according to cold Fall/Winter (5W-30)/hot Spring/Summer (10W-40) air temps) schedule, regardless of miles. This time, I'm going for longevity/long life. I know this 'spunky' 4cyl. will hold up with the Mobil 1; we'll see about the body with road rot.
 

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I use Mobil 1 too but would never put 10W-40 in a turboed engine.
 

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Traxy:
What's your thinking on this? My thinking has always been 'heavier' weight /viscosity oils (10W-40) during the summer months, when the outside temps are hot, helps to lube engine parts when the oils 'thin out' due to the much higher heat exposure. Likewise, I use 'lighter' weight oils (5W-30) during our very cold Wisconsin winter months for easier starts and colder temp exposure. I've done this ever since I've owned motor vehicles, 60+ years with great success. Thanks for your insight on this.
 

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The thing for me is you may want to wait until warranty is up because you may void warranty. I know what you're saying is probably true in your neck of the woods because of extreme temperature differences but if you starve that turbo bearing by using a thicker oil, it might suffer the consequences of getting too hot or not being able to turn as fast as it needs to. I remember back in early 60s when there were no such thing as combo oils. Winter we used 10 or 20, 30 spring and fall and 40 in the summer. Then they came out with the 10W30, one oil for all seasons. Now with 5W30 it's even better.



 
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I use Fram CH10246 until I can find better.
 
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