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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited by Moderator)
Well I finally got it all apart today. After removing the 3 torx bolts I was wiggling it around and the top rod to the external door handle popped out. Once that happened I was able to remove the whole thing and if you look at the orange clamp where it mounts onto the latch assembly on the small side of it where it goes into the mounting hole you can squeeze the tip there (there are two raised areas that when squeezed it comes right out on the mounting hole so you can see how to open it real easy). I sprayed electrical cleaner in the plug of the connector to see if it would help (it didn't help). When I put it back together it did the same thing--worked for quite a few times and then stopped, so I guess I need a replacement. At least now I know how to take it apart and put it back together. I cannot believe how hard they make it to remove this part, it doesn't have to be so hard. Thanks again to you and Traxy for all your help. Thanks, Mike
 

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Did you take pictures of disassembly process? If not when you replace it take lots of pictures and do a "How to" for the DIY section of this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I took just a few so I could remember how everything went not being sure I could figure it out before giving up. When I replace it I will be sure to take some to post. Still bugs me why it works intermittently and why the rr door actuator is so much more expensive. I may check with some junkyards. There's one on ebay from an encore with 38,000 miles and mine has 41,000 miles. You would think the drivers door would go out 1st. Engineers must have designed this so it's next to impossible for the average Joe to take it apart without breaking something. If one more dealorship tells me to watch youtube like they do I'm gonna be on the news. I enjoy fixing and learning but jeez. Thanks again for all your help. After watching me for a few days every day my neighbors (and wife) think I'm crazy but between the power seat and the door lock I probably will end up saving over $1,200. Thanks again, Mike
 

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I don't know how many pics you took during this process but you should really post a youtube video on this as there is nothing out there for the Trax except oil change and brakes. Thanks, Mike
You know, I never think about taking photos or videos until I’m all done and someone asks me about it. I’ll try to remember on my next project. Glad to hear you finally got the actuator out. It’s always ”it wasn’t that hard” after you figure it out, but you spend a lot of time trying to figure it out. And, now that you know, it‘ll be a lot quicker to pull once you are ready to do the swap.

I have the old actuator if anybody needs close ups of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well I found an OEM GM actuator/latch online for 99.90 so I bought it. Hope to have it soon
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If they could/would show you all the sides/angles/top/bottom/left/right/hidden so you could see how to unhook/unlatch you could see exactly what you need to do/get at and from what angle but you don't know that till you find out the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
GOOD AFTERNOON, HOPEFULLY I WITH RECEIVE MY NEW OEM DOOR ACTUATOR ON MONDAY. I JUST HAD ONE QUICK QUESTION, WHEN I PUT THE DOOR PANEL BACK ON THERE ARE 2 DIFF PUSH TABS THAT APPEAR TO BE DIFF SIZES AND COLORS (ORANGE/YELLOW AND GRAY. A COUPLE OF THEM CAME OFF AND I NEED TO KNOW WHERE THE DIFF COLORS GO. ANYBODY KNOW? THANKS, MIKE
20200718_173427.jpg
 

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My 2017 Trax LS has the same problem , this is the front passanger door. Sometime it locks and sometime it doesn't so after I read this page I figured out it's the actuator. I followed the instuctions and removed the plastic trim / panel, but to get to the actuator do I also need to remove the metal panel that is shown in the picture by @wmh9680 , or is there a way to replace it without removing more parts ? If I need to remove it ,can someone post here the instructions / drawings to get to the actuator?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Which picture are you referring to? If it is like the rear door you remove the door panel/armrest and clear plastic watershield and disconnect the rods and outside door handle cable. The actuator and the door latch are all one piece. There were 3 torx screws in the back side of the door where it latches to the nader pin. I had to undo the rods for the power door lock and then remove the doorlatch/actuator which was quite a pain in the AXX. Takes plenty of pics from every angle so you remember how everything goes back or you will find yourself removing and repeating steps to get it correct. It was trial and experiment trying to figure out how to remove it and get it back together again. There was not a metal plate to remove. Let me knpw if you have any more questions. I got the part new OEM from Genuine OEM Parts And Accessories At Wholesale Prices | Suburban Auto Parts. for about $107 with shipping. They were by far the cheapest price I could find for new OEM. Mike
 

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