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I bought our Trax in 2015 used from a GM dealer about 125 miles away from our home, it had about 17,000 miles on it. In 2016 we started having rear brake issues and took it to a local GM dealer it was covered under warrant but it went back 3 times . Then in 2017 it had a couple recalls that the local dealer. Also in 2017 the motor went to Knocking hard. The local dealer said the valve cover was loose and scheduled an appointment. surprise came when they found the plugs were almost out of the block and the coil packs were holding them in, It had about 30,000 miles on it. At 45,000 we changed the tires before winter at about 50,000 miles the turbo started leaking coolant the local dealer said it was not covered under warranty and GM would not replace it. They wanted $1700 to replace it . That is my rant now how do I put a new turbo that is OME that cost $280 on ?
 

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Cruze has the same engine. Simple enough but I believe it is closer to $500 for the turbo complete.

 

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Wow $1700 seems like a lot for a turbo swap. Are you confident that you can change it yourself? I think its a little optimistic to anticipate it only costing $280.
 

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Its for reasons like this that I have sat out and suggested to some friends of mine to wait for its successor, or at least one worth being a long-term buy.
 

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I haven't checked to see if the 2016 has the new version tube, but apparently this tube clogging only happens on overdue oil changes using dyno oil. The heat of the turbo cokes the oil at the bend in the pipe and it eventually clogs up. Has not happened with synthetic oil users. Maybe one of the reason GM dealerships have switched to full synthetic with these, no more blend.
 

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A really old turbo life extending tip... Don't shut the engine off too soon after driving. Let it idle for a few extra seconds to let the turbo cool down. That helps prevent oil coking in the turbo and oil supply tube. There also used to be a special procedure for changing the oil on turbo equipped vehicles. I'm not sure if the dealer does this anymore, but you were supposed to either prime the oil filter, or crank the engine over without starting it to prime the oil system before the engine starts.
 

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On my way home tonight I suddenly developed a wizzing noise from under the hood going at 100Kms, so I pulled over but as I was slowing down the noise disappeared. Stopped, lifted the hood but I couldn't see anything because it was dark and no noise. Took off again and didn't hear it for a good 3 minutes then it started again, a fairly loud wizzing noise like something was rubbing at engine speed. I will have to investigate come daylight if the problem is still there tomorrow.
 

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Update: I got all worried for nothing, lifted the hood this morning and it was just a branch from a poplar tree that was jammed in where the serpentine belt idler is. Ripped it out and noise is gone. Haven't got a clue how that got in there.
 

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I brought my car into the dealer 2 times for a burning smell. They said it was the engine filter and charged me 100.00 plus. 3rd time, it was the turbo booster. They had my car for 2 months because they couldn't find the part. When I get it back, on the steering wheel, the phone and volume do not work any longer. I never used it anyway. Then the temp will not display. We bring it back and I am supposed to pay $135.00 for a diagnosis fee?
 

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That's where I would scream loud as **** and made sure everybody knew I wasn't happy or satisfied. Ask to talk to manager cuze this is ridiculous.

On an other note GM reduced the size of their fuel treatment by almost half but still charge the same price maybe more.

 

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We have a '16 Trax love the little thing. We live in an area where it gets cold. My check engine light came on twice and the 2nd time the dealer where i take the car for maintenance said i needed to take it to a GM dealer and have them check it. Well the turbo went out on it, ice was accumulating in charge air cooler causing condition. It was replaced but now each time it gets below 32 degrees or above that, i need to put on or take off a winter grill cover. the way the weather is always constantly changing in Iowa I could be running myself wragged. I would hate to have to pay for this after no longer under warranty and will it be a continual problem if not monitored properly?
 

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They must mean for extended periods of time....I also have a 2016 and it gets cold here too but I haven't had a problem.
 

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yes, so you have the main parts of it. the coolant is leaking from the coolant tubes behind the turbo,also the oil feed line and oil cooler is leaking and that would be repaired at the same time. on top of the engine oil is leaking out of the camshaft cover (ruptured) do to pressure caused by the plugged pcv ports in the cylinder head which we access by removing the intake manifold (the manifold is what houses the non-return valve that acts like a pcv valve ). by repairing the clogged pcv system that will stop the oil leaks from immediately reoccurring. the oil leaks in this case were caused by crankcase pressure * this is my current situation---------------1823.45$ is the estimate. I am hoping my husband can do it ??? any opinions on that. the dealership said 5 hours of labor.
 
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