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I bought my car in March but never used the car until recently I had an old corvette I used since it had 100K miles on it I used it and kept the trax in the garage.



 

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Discussion Starter #5
I hope you plan on getting it rust proofed before heading out into the messy winter stuff especially right before salt is on the road.
 

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I undercoated most of the bottom on top of the factory undercoat that came on it.

I shoot from behind the front wheels all the way to the back, then around the rear wheel wells and behind the rear bumper.

This was shot after I was sure the body was free of moisture after standing in a garage for a month.

This is my going to be my winter driver, but now its my daily driver because I sold my old corvette, I still am using the new corvette on days it doesn't rain.
 

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I hope you plan on getting it rust proofed before heading out into the messy winter stuff especially right before salt is on the road.
Is it necessary or more of a precaution? I just can't see the Trax being sold in Canada without having proper protection.
 

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I under coat every metal car I buy, you don't need to do the whole bottom of any car, all you need to coat is where the wheels throw snow ice and salt.

It would take over 10 years for the car to rust in the middle part, nothing really ever hits the middle part, a space 2 feet wide or so behind the front wheels to behind the rear wheels is all that is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is it necessary or more of a precaution? I just can't see the Trax being sold in Canada without having proper protection.
I think from factory there is some very basic level of rust proofing. Dealer might offer their own basic package. But some shops go as in depth as spraying on the inside of panels for the ultimate protection.
 

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The trax comes with a clear undercoating my friend has a 99 silverado he had undercoated with the clear undercoating when it was new, the truck to this day looks new underneath.

The clear stuff is good, as it is, I just wanted to add a little extra to coat the bolts and anything that might rust.

It takes about 2 to3 cans to coat all the trouble spots good, the middle of the vehicle never gets any slop so don't waste your time or undercoating it, it is just the spots behind the front and rear wheels that get the abuse of salt and slop.
This is the method I have been using on new metal cars for the past 10 years, when I trade my cars they still look new underneath..
 

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Finally Stripped my Trax.

I finally had a good day after a cold snowy winter, temps were in the mid to high 70's and I took advantage of a Sunny day and stripped my Trax. It's not the best I have ever done but will suffice until I get another set ordered.. What do you think?? Maybe a Super Sport marker on the hatchback lid, LOL!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
At this point it looks like all you need is to do an LS engine swap, some SS badges and Z06 wheels to go with it :D

 

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I think your stripes would look better if you continue the stripes on to the header panel, but finish them like original the original chevy stripes, like those that are found on the old SS chevelle, and camaro's were.

Might look good on the rear hatch door also.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think your stripes would look better if you continue the stripes on to the header panel, but finish them like original the original chevy stripes, like those that are found on the old SS chevelle, and camaro's were.

Might look good on the rear hatch door also.
that's actually a good idea and will look very OEM, which is a good thing, i remember seeing a non sport model like that a while ago and it looked great with stripes, forgot what car it was but the stripes were OEM and it looked great. Same thing is going down here.
 
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