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Temperature control issue

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68K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  bonesfan4ever  
#1 ·
So recently the temperature control dial stopped working on my 2016 Trax and it was always blowing heat. I took the glove box out and tore apart under the dash on the passenger side to gain access to the gears attached to the control that blends the hot/cold air. I manually rotated the gear so that cold air would blow. I had ordered a service manual from Quality Service Manuals online. Of course the drawings don't match or provide any additional insight. I've attached two pictures. One zoomed out where you can see the plastic gear I rotated on the left. One zoomed in. I was originally thinking I'd be able to replace the controller attached to the gear, but I can't find a part number anywhere online for anything other than the gear itself. In theory the issue could be electronic in the dial itself or the controller on the cam. I'd just replace the less expensive controller to start if there was no easy way to troubleshoot further.



Has anyone else come across this issue?
 

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#6 ·
This will only go in one way, the big cog has to line up with the big gap in the outside gear. Let us know if you've had any problems with the install.
 
#7 ·
The project ended up taking longer than it should have. I ordered the part, and then almost a week later they canceled the order and said they couldn't get the part. Ordered from a second place and had no issues with delivery, outside of this one being more expensive. Once I had it torn apart and compared the original cable with the new one, it was obvious what the problem is. Somehow the small cable that drives the actuator had come out of the plastic channel. I actually had the original one more or less fixed and working, but there was a bit of slop in the cable so I just replaced it. I'm still not sure how it could jump out of the channel given how hard it was to get it back in. Everything buttoned up and working now. Thanks again for your help.
 
#8 ·
A lot of the time this happens in winter when people try to actuate these before hot air has had a chance to thaw the frozen trap doors or flaps. Applying too much force will either snap the cable or stretch it. Did you take any pictures???
 
#9 ·
I did not think of getting a picture, but it was basically two "loops" of cable on the backside of the dial hanging there. We had a brutal winter in Iowa this year, and this was my daughter's vehicle that sat outside the garage and experienced the brunt of the cold temps. That is definitely consistent with your theory.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Doesn't it feel good to save yourself a trip to the dealer. So self gratifying and a lot cheaper. How long did it take you and how long do you think it would take if you had to redo it today? How old is your daughter? I bought a 2016 Encore for my oldest for her graduation from University (Pearl white over silver with saddle leather interior ). She's since married and her husband takes pretty good care of it. Girls tend to neglect vehicles. He regularly details the interior and recently clay barred it. Except for a few rock chips and curb rash on one rim it still looks pretty good.
 
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#12 · (Edited)
The temperature control is on passenger's side and the blend door control on the driver's side of the air box. These are similar but carry different GM #s. The blend door control's number is GM#95476707 # 22 in picture. The replacement procedure is the same but on the opposite side.

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#13 ·
OMG! You just saved me $700!!! I had googled the part they said I needed and it was like $30, so $670 for labor. After suffering for several months I decided to google the problem and part again and stumbled on your post! We just moved to Florida when the problem started and it’s been miserable having to go anywhere. I just used your pictures and boom had cold air in less than a minute!
 
#15 ·
#22 ·
I had the same issue and just took it in and got it fixed today. It was a cable on the temperature switch part cost 8.91 and labor was 127.50 so not bad at all. Cold air is working great now. I also just had to replace the evaporative canister purge solenoid and that cost me 61.37 and labor 34.00 so all togther it was 236.00. I called the chevy place and they wanted 150 just to run diagnostic test. I had O'Reilly check why my check engine light was on and they gave me a print out and that wasn't good enough they still said it would be 150.00 to run test. They love to rip people off.
 
#25 ·
Yeah, I think my chevy dealer is ripping me off. It was legit $299 in labor to diagnose the problem. A different dealer, the one where I got the car said it was the actuator in the hvac system. They wouldn't fix it because they aren't a chevy dealer so I had to go to the actual chevy dealer. They're trying to tell me it would $701 to replace the temperature control cable. o_O😑