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Sorry it took so long to get back to you guys! The check engine light came on about 10 days ago while my wife was heading to the city. It was not making much power and when climbing out of a valley it downshifted to 4th instead of 5th like it usually does(4000 rpm instead of 3000). When we took it to the dealer it turned out to be the turbo. Thank god for warranty! Seems to be a problem with condensation. Strange for we farm and it's 15minutes from town at highway speeds. You would think the moisture would burn/dry out. Anyways, they said they had issues with the turbo and ours was not the first. Living in the prairies and the cold winters may not help the issue. Hope this helps. I also hope this gets addressed at GM or there could be a lot of trax/encores getting traded off when warranty is up. Good thing we got extended warranty at time of purchase.
You better just buy a garbage can. Turbos trash in them. Mine been in shop they said moisture. Then they replaced the wastegate and tried to charge me for it when I hadn’t even made the first payment. Week later same issue. Now all the lights are flickering or surging. Even at highway speeds.
 
Post about any issues/problems you have experience with your chevy trax in this thread.
Recently experienced an intermediate issue with the key fobs not working on our 2019 Chevrolet Trax. Remote starter operated fine but we found ourselves not able to get into the vehicle. Drivers door latch button, and key both fobs inoperable, but the rears hatch opened by the handle button. Had to use the key that is inside the fob to gain access. Once inside the lock were still inoperable by the door switch at times. Replaced both batteries and key fobs worked okay until they failed a few hours later. On that attempt even the car failed to start with the start button on IP. Called Roadside assistance to tow the vehicle to dealer, but found the fobs, and the vehicle to start prior to their arrival. Dealership said unless it is acting up don't drop it off.
 
I went in for an oil change and tire rotation yesterday. I had 2 leaks: camshaft solenoid O-rings and oil inlet for the turbo. Not surprising since the vehicle is 7 years old and has a bit over 70,500 miles.
 
Jerky shift


I've had my 2017 Trax about 2 months and have put about 2k miles on it. I've noticed that accelerating from a dead stop has a a very jerky feel to it. if anyone has this same feeling i would love to get some feedback.
Yes, Trax is more jerky while accelerating than my 2011 HHR. May be because the tranny is 6 speed and changing gears can cause jerks.
 
2015 Trax AWD issues

Most issues have been recalls or defective parts.

Some valve in engine oil fill rotated and caused Check Engine light to come on. This was a known defect of the Manifold, but only replaced if and when the valve rotated. But the fix was intense, new top half of the engine basically.

Bad Ignition Coil, again factory defect but only fixed when the Trax starts missing do to wear out of spark plugs. I'm pretty upset about this one, at least it occurred at 43K while still under long term warranty but consequential damage to spark plugs was not covered.

These are both known issues but they haven't recalled them. They just hope it doesn't occur till after the warranty expires and then its out of the owners pocket and not theirs.

I'm disappointed with my Trax, I had a Cavalier that I got with 85K and had no issues with. Just regular fluid changes and once the water pump went out. I drove it till 200K before I got in a wreak. Only then did we replace spark plugs and other big maintenance. I then sold it and it continued to run well till the ignition needed to be replaced and the new owner replaced with a push button start. Totally ruined the car, had a hard time getting it started after that and they gave up. They just needed to replace the ignition, not modify it. But that was the best Chevy car ever. The Trax doesn't match thus far, more issues with the Trax in 2 years than in 12 yrs with my Cavalier.
May be because the TRAX has lot more features and electronic components, and sensors, and lot more complicated than Cavalier was.
 
Wipers that squeal are usually dried out, they get hard from sitting in the sun.

What a dealer will do is clean the windshield then use Rainx on it, then if the wipers still make noise they replace the blades.

I took a truck I had one day back to the dealer with the same problem, after wasting an hour of my time trying to make them work right, they replaced the blades like I requested.

These new windshields feel rough to the touch they are not smooth like normal glass, after a little use of the blades you can feel the difference, its smoothing the glass as they wipe.
I just replaced wiper blades on my Chevy HHR 2011 model. Bought 2 blades 18" long for less than $10.
It is ridiculously easy to replace plades by DIY. Just pry open the plate at middle of blade and the old one will slide out of the steel arm easily. Slide in the new blade and close down the middle plate. That's it.
 
My 17 with 42k miles needs a turbo replacement. Dealership did not really care to explain to me why. I'm wondering if this is unusual for only 42k miles. Is it a concern that might lead to other problems?
I had the exact same problem at the exact same mileage. Don’t get the Chevy turbo again. It’s a lousy design. And way too expensive. I got the Stigen from Amazon for about $160. It took an afternoon to change. I’ve had cv Axels that we’re harder to change. The Stigen comes with a two year unlimited mileage warranty as long as you get the kit that includes the coolant line. The flaw in these is that the coolant line runs so close to the manifold that it’s constantly cooking the oil inside the line and choking off the flow. Most people I’ve talked to recommend changing the coolant line every 10000 miles. Which seems like a pain, but isn’t too bad and only costs $20. Had the Stigen a year with 23000 on it and it’s still working great. Frankly better than ever. But I also don’t wait for the oil change light to come on. I change mine at 4000 miles or less.
 
Having issues while driving down the road have occasionally had my transmission slip. Now it slipped and my door locks locked and unlocked and the dash lights flickered on and off ...... any one else have the same issue? When I had it looked at nothing is found.
 
Haven't posted in a while, so I figured I would update the forum after four years of ownership since new on her 2016 Trax LS 6M

The Wife's Trax just had its second safety inspections conducted by the dealership (4-year ownership) 44 000 Miles, received the video. no corrosion under the vehicle (except for exhaust which does not appear to be stainless) vehicle is undercoated twice a year. All checks out, so after four years of ownership in the Canadian climate (3 winters). Here is our total maintenance costs (other than undercoating) and the two sets of tires one summer one winter purchased when picking up the vehicle.

3 Wiper Blades 50.00
7Oil changes 320.00 (first four covered by GM)
2 Air filters: 30.00
Roof plastic trims replaced under warranty

Inspection revealed front brake pads while still legal will need replacing in the coming year. Each set of tires is still between half and a third of its thread life.

That's it, folks... Paid less than $14 000us out the door for the vehicle in 2016 and the maintenance costs for the first four years = One hundred dollars a year.

Very satisfied, we always own two or three vehicles and this is the cheapest "second vehicle" we have owned.
Its nice to hear from someone who had good news to post. It is normal for people to post when they are having issues with their car. People who have no issues rarely post. So, reading this forum gives the impression that Trax is a piece of crap. My wild ass guess is owners with few serious problems outnumber those with problems 10:1. I never had a serious problem with 1964 Corvair, 1967 Impala, 1971 Nova, 1977 Malibu, Ford Probe, Dodge Ram Conversion Van, Olds Alero, Pontiac G5, 2017 Chevy Spark, 2022 Trax AWD.

OK, my 1971 Nova had 65k miles when driving home from work on a Friday, suddenly the engine started making hammering sounds. I pulled into first Chevy dealer and had the mechanics look at it. I saw 2 mechanics revving the engine trying to figure out the issue. Then they gave ne the bad news. They said one rod bearing was busted, which would mean metal particles floating in the engine, and advised me to do engine overhaul. This was probably 1974. Estimated cost $2500. That is like $10,000 today. I told them I just don't want to spend that much money on a car with 65k miles. I will think over the weekend. The mechanic warned me if I drove another 15 miles to home, there was risk of rods busting up the engine block. I told them the hammering sound was proportional to speed, so I will take side streets driving slower. On weekend I read my handy dandy repair manual and learned that rod bearing failure would cause more sound when accelerating or decelerating. From best I could figure out, it was more likely valve rocker arm failure. On Monday morning I drove into a Buick dealership and told them to check valve train. I am waiting in the lounge, anxiously waiting for the verdict. Only an hour later my name was called to go see the cashier. The Bill was $125 for replacing a bent rocker arm and car was ready to go. After that the car ran without any issues until 150k miles.
 
2017 Trax prob: My AC motor/fan just stopped working...not blowing at all...weird thing is when the fan does start it blows cold on the "off" position. But when I turn it to 1 or more... it doesn't blow it all. Also, my check engine light is on. And when I got a checked at autozone, it says it's the purge canister valve. But Chevy dealership won't take their word for it. And I have to have them check it In order to get it fixed, I'm so annoyed.
 
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